How To Clean Stainless Steel Mill Finish

I'thousand considering a little project using stainless steel, looking at an online source that gives this description:
304 Stainless Steel Rectangular Bar, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, Annealed, Standard Tolerance, Inch, ASTM A276

I've never worked with stainless earlier. What would it take to bring the "unpolished (mill) cease" to a shinier finish? Not looking for a mirror cease, just something pleasing to the eye.

Does stainless steel accept an equivalent to mill calibration that comes on carbon steel?

No mill scale, stainless is pretty much good to go for a lot of things. You can add a brushed stop or polished if desired. To polish yous use a buffer and stainless buffing compound. A overnice satin terminate can come from scotchbrite wheels or pads.

I like the brushed look personally. I would use 120 dust to put on the brushed end. Many canvass metallic shops have sanders that tin apply the finish and will not charge too much coin. If you apply the terminate personally, the brushed finish tin can be applied by a belt sander or block sanding in one direction.

Click image for larger version. Name: 1.jpg Views: 542 Size: 90.8 KB ID: 10770

This is a slice of 304 flat bar, every bit received. No calibration as Rambozo said, very like shooting fish in a barrel to finish and fifty-fifty easier to scratch!

Thanks for responses. I wouldn't expect "easy to scratch"... does that vary between varieties of stainless?

Quote Originally Posted by DaveO View Post

Thanks for responses. I wouldn't expect "piece of cake to scratch"... does that vary between varieties of stainless?

"Easy" is relative to carbon steel, just information technology can be a large issue if you selected SS for appearance reasons.

Grades will touch on toughness, but your choices can exist limited since you will be welding. The matensitic 400 grades are used for knife blades and tools when hardened. Welding is likely a complicated procedure, if possible, simply I'd defer that question to some of the experienced folks.

In the canvass metal merchandise, information technology'south common to utilise a 3M Scotch-brite belt that you lot slip onto your belt sander to produce the "grain" end. Information technology really speeds upwards the procedure of blending welded areas to lucifer manufacturing plant #4 finishes on stainless sheet (later on yous grind them down far plenty), but you can utilize information technology to use that same grain on virtually whatsoever shape or thickness of stainless. Particularly if you get the belt that fits a common portable belt sander.

Touching up scratches or nicks in polished stainless tin can exist a existent task, but with the brushed finish, you lot simply run a scotch-brite pad over the surface to match what'due south already there. Stainless steel degreasers or cleaners work well with the scotch-brite pads too.

My "project" is only a support for a shelf in the kitchen so it volition be by and large curtained. Not a tool-class stainless application, that's for certain, didn't mean for the thread to run that way.

Rambozo mentioned Scotchbrite too, and I was thinking about a pad in an bending grinder. I should get some scrap to exercise on, and I just remember the brick and mortar supplier nearest me doesn't deport stainless, go figure.

Way back when I was a yoot, working in a restaurant, I remember a stainless cleaner/smoothen chosen Sheila Polish.
Low and behold the stuff is nonetheless effectually. We used this with and without Scotchbrite depending on how messed up things were.
http://www.sheilashineinc.com/

Dave, if you're matching other stainless in the kitchen, yous may not be happy with the finish left from a grinder (a non-specific pattern). If you have no stainless in the kitchen, than it obviously won't thing one way or the other. Whatever makes the "Mrs." happy and allows you time in the garage for welding!

Win/win!

Quote Originally Posted past Rambozo View Post

Fashion back when I was a yoot, working in a restaurant, I remember a stainless cleaner/polish called Sheila Shine.
Depression and behold the stuff is still effectually. We used this with and without Scotchbrite depending on how messed upwardly things were.
http://www.sheilashineinc.com/

I was wracking my brain trying to call up the Stainless cleaner we used in the sail metal store. Granted, we used a few unlike ones, only one in detail that worked well (non cheap). I know there are several good cleaners that are highly recommended, so it probably doesn't matter anyways! It's similar arguing which motor oil is the all-time for the family SUV sitting in the driveway.

Quote Originally Posted by youngnstudly View Post

Dave, if you're matching other stainless in the kitchen, you lot may not exist happy with the end left from a grinder (a non-specific pattern).

Skilful to know- nosotros do take another stainless in the kitchen, then looks like I'm in the market for a chugalug sander that will have scotch brite!

The longer story: my wife wants to increase countertop surface area with a raised surface over the half of the cooktop that she's non working on at any moment. So I'g thinking of a frame on legs, but high enough to clear knobs and whatever else, and able to hold a piece of matching countertop, x2 to cover both sides if necessary. However preliminary at this moment, although after reading up on stainless on the forum I just asked River Weld to send me a gas lens.

Exercise a goo0lle search for "flap drum", and so click on images. Information technology may give you some ideas.

12:25 AM

Just to be clear Dave, if you are just putting the grain on a modest frame with legs, you lot could probably get away with doing it by hand with the Scotchbrite pad. No demand to buy a belt sander and the special belt just for that one (or 2) projection(s)...unless y'all want to. Do yous plan on blending the welded areas so it looks like the whole affair was made from one piece, or leaving the (pretty

) beads exposed for all the world to run across?

Quote Originally Posted by sportbike View Post

Practice a goo0lle search for "flap drum", then click on images. It may give you some ideas.

I've never seen a grinder in that configuration earlier, that'south cool and would be much easier to use than the setup we had at work. We always used the flap drums but they were mounted on a straight grinder (long, bad-mannered, and a little difficult to keep steady while trying to blend just the weld bead and Not the machine finished stainless around the weld!

). They did work well mounted in a pocket-size electrical drill though. The grinder we had was similar to this one:

I would agree that going with a manus-end or a flap sander would be meliorate than a chugalug. If the chugalug is broad and the plate is non very flat, you may finish upwardly with a heavy polish on the high spots and take diffculty getting a uniform finish without removing a lot of surface. I would expect the Scotchbrite belts to be much better than dust in this regard.

My vote would be for leaving the welds exposed and not blending. I did this with a minor bathroom towel rack and thought it looked really good as-welded.

My thinking was that if Dave's wife wanted to tell her friends virtually the fancy stainless work that was in her kitchen, Dave might desire to make the office he'due south fabricating expect like it'south a factory built role. While I do bask pretty welds, I also appreciate all the work that information technology takes to make something expect like information technology was machined from a unmarried slice of material, instead of welded using several pieces of material. If the end work was blended nicely, anyone that glanced at information technology would think that it was a standard kitchen accompaniment bought from large chain appliance store. Just it'due south mostly the wife's phone call since she's your customer (then to speak).

Keep in mind that welding is like a drug....the more you build things for your spouse, the more projects they ask you lot to build afterward on (in one case they gain confidence in you)! The fox is to not go hooked and overdose.

Correct now I'thou planning a rectangular frame in SS bending to support the raised surface, with a circular rod aptitude in a foursquare U shape underneath for legs. Legs would be under the "short" side of the rectangle just to allow sliding the structure from side to side. That's the reason for using angle, to support the long span of whatever the surface cloth volition exist, and to preclude the surface from sliding sideways off the support. It would exist cool to discover some marble, maybe, I just oasis't got that far nonetheless.

The amount of exposed weld would be minimal, determined mostly past whether or not I choose an within or outside weld at the corners, and color or texture matching of the SS is a nice-to-accept rather than a gotta-accept. I'm thinking the most visual affect volition come from the surface material.

Most term I'm planning to go some steel circular rod to exercise precise bends with an OA torch and welding a length of round rod to a flat surface. Not sure, though, what OA heating does to the SS... do colors from heating buff out?

Sounds like a nice look. How large of a bar and what bend radius? Cold-bending would be best if the bar diameter is not too big and/or radius not too small. The heat discoloration could prove hard to remove and acheive a compatible finish (it'south also complicated by the new shape).

DaveO, consider getting a scotch-brite paw pad, (or 2 or 3) and do some experimenting to run across if it will work for y'all. They aren't that expensive and they are very handy. I'd recommend the maroon colour pads, and apply an old pair of pair of scissors to cutting off whatever size piece you lot demand from the pad. (You can make a single hand pad ho a long ways doing this...) You'll get a sense of how much effort it takes and whether information technology will piece of work for your application, or if something else (probably more expensive) volition be necessary. They can too put a "grained" finish on aluminum very hands, and are useful for pre-welding prep.

05:45 AM

All the angles would be 90*, and rod diameter I'k thinking 1/4" or and then. Sounds similar I should plan on common cold bending.

Edit: I had the browser open up for and so long I missed Jakeru'southward mail- I'll give the maroon Scotch brites a shot.

1/4" is definitely a common cold bend and to just nearly any radius you want. With that information technology will also be very like shooting fish in a barrel to tack up a simple angle jig or just find something round (pipage, rod, etc) and grade a prissy, polish curve and brand the parts consequent.

How To Clean Stainless Steel Mill Finish

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